This week I made the bra and arm cuffs. The bra was a little difficult as it was necessary to stitch pieces of patterned fabric together to look as if it was one continuous piece. The trim over the section where the neckties are attached also had to have a piece of fabric appliquéd over the top so that it gave a nice finish to the edge.
The back of the bra was finished with some elastic encased in lycra with a bra hook and eye closure for a secure closing. The neck ties were also made in a lycra so there is a little give around the neck for comfort.
This week I pinned all the pattern pieces in place and cut out the belt pieces. The scallop trim then needed to be stitched onto the outter edge.
I decided to go with an applique technique called needle turn applique, where you tuck under the edge with the needle and ‘invisibly’ stitch as close to the edge as possible. It took a while as it had to be done by hand but the finish is beautiful. Below is a video of how I did it.
I started drafting and adapting patterns this week to create the design. I then used the patterns to make a prototype so that it could be tried on and any changes or adjustments in shaping and size could be made. Also this gave an idea of how the shapes worked on the body as well as visualising how the pattern could fall on the finished piece. After the fitting there was a few adjustments to the belt pattern pieces making the ties and triangle point longer. The patterning on the belt is also going to be different the scallop patterning will go down either edge of the point.
I photographed all the pattern pieces so that I could overlay then on the computer to see how the pattern could be placed. The scallop edge will need to be appliqued on top, to line both the edges, the ties would also have the scallop trim lining the bottom edge.
I have been asked to create a custom bra and belt set using a beautiful purple and gold batik fabric.
The main part of the fabric is paisley patterned, and all the edges are finished with a scallop border with flowers. At the one end is a wide welt of triangular patterning.
I starting by looking at the fabric and trying to visualize which pieces of the pattern would look nice where.
Then the designing stage!
The two designs are quite similar appart from the under skirt and the pattern placement on the bra. In one I have used the paisley section for the main part and edged both centres with the scallop and flowers
On the other I have used the triangular pattern for the main section and positioned the diamonds just above the bust line.
Different aspects of both designs are going to be used on the final costume. The under skirt will be made of a lovely netty gold fabric, the bra will have the triangular patterning, and the belt instead of having the scallop at the top will have it lining the bottom edge framing the point. The hanging ties will have the paisley patterning and will be edged with the scallop edging as well.
Next thing is to make the pattern pieces and pin them out on the fabric.
I’ve finally finished all the beading on the neckline. It was a lot of work but I think it was worth it, the finished piece is really effective.
Next was to attach the neckline to the dress. I started by pinning the neckline to the dress while on a dress former to make sure it was stretched slightly.
Turning under the edge all the way round the neckline, pinning as I went.
Then I slip stitched all around the inner edge, making sure that the fabric was smooth and turned under enough not to be seen from the outside.
In the centre front I stitched two lots of bugle beads between the two sides to maintain a certain spacing while still being open.
With the dress back on the former I pinned the outside edge of the neckline and again invisibly hand stitched under the edge.
The last finishing touches are to stitch the arm holes, hem and side seams.
To launch my new blog I’m running a giveaway for a pair of handmade modular belts!
You can enter through any of these blatantly promotional social media methods (you can’t blame me can you?). You’ll get one entry for each thing you do, so if you like Endenisia AND tweet a link, that’s double the chance to win!
The winner, picked randomly from entries through all of the above methods combined will win a pair of modular belts handmade by Endenisia.
Each belt section measures approx 37cm in length / 9cm wide and comes with a pair of brown fabric ties. They’re made using antique sari trim and are adorned with mirror trim, turkish buttons and kuchi chain. Great for dancewear or whatever else you think they’d go with!
The Terms & Stuff
The giveaway will close on 21st May 2013 at 11:59 GMT.
No purchase necessary.
Entry is open to anyone who can legally use the services required to enter.
I’ll ship worldwide but in the very unlikely event that shipping + tax is in excess of £40, I’ll ask you to cover the remaining cost.
In the event that the operation or administration of the giveaway is impaired for any reason (technical issues, data loss, etc.) Endenisa will either suspend the giveaway until the issue is resolved or issue the prize to a random entrant from any eligible entries.
Endenisia may disqualify any entrant found tampering with the entry process with multiple entries by using multiple accounts/email addresses.
By participating in the Giveaway, you agree to release and hold harmless Endenisia from and against any claim or cause of action arising out of participation in the Giveaway or receipt or use of any prize. Void where prohibited.
Here are my performances from Friday 19th April at the World Dance Festival in Lampeter. The first is my Gothic Lolita Solo to Animus Vox by The Glitch Mob and the other is in Lyza Chthonia’s Black Sheep group.