I have just finished a new how to about using water soluble film to create a machine embroidered material.
For the Summer Sapphire Bellydance Charity show coming up in the new few weeks I have decided on my song and in the process of working out a choreography. This is my new costume which will go with it.
The track is an mix of Build that Wall and Terminal March from the soundtrack of Bastion by Darren Korb. To go with this I’ve chosen to make a belly dance costume based on the character of Zia.
I decided a nice way of doing this would be to outline a few of the paisleys with twisted bugle beads.
I decided to go with an applique technique called needle turn applique, where you tuck under the edge with the needle and ‘invisibly’ stitch as close to the edge as possible. It took a while as it had to be done by hand but the finish is beautiful. Below is a video of how I did it.
I started drafting and adapting patterns this week to create the design. I then used the patterns to make a prototype so that it could be tried on and any changes or adjustments in shaping and size could be made. Also this gave an idea of how the shapes worked on the body as well as visualising how the pattern could fall on the finished piece. After the fitting there was a few adjustments to the belt pattern pieces making the ties and triangle point longer. The patterning on the belt is also going to be different the scallop patterning will go down either edge of the point.
I photographed all the pattern pieces so that I could overlay then on the computer to see how the pattern could be placed. The scallop edge will need to be appliqued on top, to line both the edges, the ties would also have the scallop trim lining the bottom edge.
The main part of the fabric is paisley patterned, and all the edges are finished with a scallop border with flowers. At the one end is a wide welt of triangular patterning.
I starting by looking at the fabric and trying to visualize which pieces of the pattern would look nice where.
Then the designing stage!
The two designs are quite similar appart from the under skirt and the pattern placement on the bra. In one I have used the paisley section for the main part and edged both centres with the scallop and flowers
On the other I have used the triangular pattern for the main section and positioned the diamonds just above the bust line.
Different aspects of both designs are going to be used on the final costume. The under skirt will be made of a lovely netty gold fabric, the bra will have the triangular patterning, and the belt instead of having the scallop at the top will have it lining the bottom edge framing the point. The hanging ties will have the paisley patterning and will be edged with the scallop edging as well.
Next thing is to make the pattern pieces and pin them out on the fabric.
I’ve finally finished all the beading on the neckline. It was a lot of work but I think it was worth it, the finished piece is really effective.
Next was to attach the neckline to the dress. I started by pinning the neckline to the dress while on a dress former to make sure it was stretched slightly.
Turning under the edge all the way round the neckline, pinning as I went.
Then I slip stitched all around the inner edge, making sure that the fabric was smooth and turned under enough not to be seen from the outside.
In the centre front I stitched two lots of bugle beads between the two sides to maintain a certain spacing while still being open.
With the dress back on the former I pinned the outside edge of the neckline and again invisibly hand stitched under the edge.
The last finishing touches are to stitch the arm holes, hem and side seams.